Wednesday, 5 September 2012

Restaurant Frederiks Have - Copenhagen

Copenhagen gave us many memorable meals, not least of which was the multi-course meal with matching wine we enjoyed at Restaurant Frederiks Have. We received a warm welcome from the front of house staff and took the chance to sit in the courtyard on what was a pleasantly warm Danish evening.

An amuse bouche of slices of cured scallop topped with an apple foam and pea shoots was delicious. An interesting take on a classic combination of flavours.

The creamy fish soup with lemon sole and mussels was the opening dish from then menu. The soup was rich and would have been a perfect accompaniment to the fish if there hadn't been a slightly overzealous hand with the salt in the kitchen.

The dish of the meal for me was this ballotine of foie gras and breast of beef with chanterelles and gooseberries. The fatty ballotine would have been almost sickeningly rich if it hadn't been cut with the salty beef and sharp gooseberries. Together with the earthy mushrooms it was a delightful dish that, if my arteries could stand it, I would happily eat every night.

The roast veal with sweetbreads, cauliflower and oxheart cabbage was a a delight. The large lump of veal was rare, juicy and meatily good, the crispy sweetbreads and cauliflower were the perfect accompaniment but what the hell were those three roasted new potatoes doing on there? They looked out of place and although tasty the dish seemed lopsided. It was as if the kitchen weren't confident enough to send out the plate without at least two veg on there.

Blueberry, milk chocolate and macadamia was a bit odd. The gummy texture of the milk chocolate cube was off-putting and the blueberry ice-cream lacked any real blueberry freshness. It was a bit of a miss to round off an otherwise excellent meal.

No comments: