Monday, 25 July 2016

Hungerlust Guide to Eating and Drinking in Lyon

Lyon is a wonderful place for food and drink lovers to visit for a holiday. It's sandwiched between two great wine regions and is considered the culinary capital of France. But there are so many restaurants, wine bars and food based things to do that it can at first seem a little overwhelming. So here is the Hungerlust Guide to some of our favourite places in Lyon.

Chateauneuf De Peuple

Chateauneuf de Peuple is a truly unique and special wine bar in the old town of Lyon. The owner and your guide into his world of wine, Mahdi, is an intriguing host. Sitting down in what feels like his front room for the first time, you won't know what to expect.



There is no wine list and the only food menu is a chalk board declaring a choice of cheese and charcuterie. But spend some time here and let yourself be guided by Mahdi through his intriguing collection of natural wines and you won't be sorry. That plate of cheese and meat is huge and will sate you for the whole evening. His wine collection is extensive and it's a pleasure to let yourself be guided through the international and fascinating natural wine list.

Chope De Lug

If you thought that French beer was just Kronenburg and not much else then a visit to this beer shop deep in the winding streets of the old town will set you straight. They stock a vast range of beers and beer styles from the Rhone region and we bought an excellent range of beers that Nate and I tasted on the first episode of my brand new podcast Parched and Peckish. The beers from this shop typically come in beautiful 750ml bottles adorned with particularly artful labels.



Archange


Octopus and Caulifower starter
We've been eating at Archange since we first visited Lyon back in 2012. It's a charming restaurant with a compact and impressive menu of seemingly classic french dishes but done with a modern flair. We always start with the unusual house kir made with a red pepper syrup. Like the menu, the wine list is also short but well formed and service from the proprietor is always personal and excellent.
Langoustine ravioli
Cafe Gadagne
If you are wandering around the traboules of the old town and looking for somewhere for a tasty lunch then you could do a lot worse than this popular cafe at the top of the Musee Gadagne. It's worth the wait for a table for their substantial salads and charcuterie.

L'Ebauche
It's always fun to take a chance on a new restaurant that you like the look of on holiday. We spied this one from our upstairs window at Le Potager Des Halles. L'Ebauche seats 26 people and is open for lunch and dinner. A simple sounding menu of three starters, three mains and three desserts belies the sophistication of this bistronomic delight. We especially liked the veal with polenta, boudin noir puree and apple. More charming service from the host who told us that the chef was working in Sketch in London prior to returning to Lyon to set up this cosy little nook of a restaurant.

The veal and black pudding

Puzzle Cafe
Puzzle is a cool little cafe serving great coffee and patisserie on Rue de la Poulaillerie near the Saint-Nizier Church. Drop in for a drip coffee and a slice of clafoutis.

AOC Les Halles
AOC in the famous Bocuse Halles is always our first stop when we arrive in Lyon. They pride themselves on the quality of their steak but it is their cheese and charcuterie plate that we always get for lunch. Excellent pate, saucisson and cheese from the markets along with some of the best bread and butter we've had in Lyon.

Les Fleurs Du Malt
Les Fleurs Du Malt have a couple of bars and a beer shop but it was at the basement bar near the banks of the SaƓne river that we enjoyed an international craft beer list, served unusually at the bar only. At first glance the bar looks tiny but it opens up into the basement arches to make a large hall that can gets buzzy when busy at the weekends.

Vins Nature
Vins Nature have a few shops in Lyon where they sell an exceptional range of natural wines from all over France and also a small selection of local and international beers.

Ninkasi
The Ninkasi brewery was formed in 1997. They have ten bars and venues spread out around Lyon, Villeurbanne and Menuires. The large venue in the Gerland region of Lyon hosts music concerts, DJs, BBQ events and has it's own fast food bar which serves excellent burgers.


The beers themselves are solid examples of modern craft staples. The seasonal beers are excellent, when we were there last they were serving a smoked brown ale in honour of Lemmy from Motorhead.

1 comment:

This is Lyon said...

Hey this a great post, thanks for sharing about Lyon a city we love.
We're working on the V1 of our website dedicated to Lyon 100% in English and would love to have comments about it.
Keep up the good work